Countryside Walks

GEOGRAPHY

Salobreña is on the Costa Tropical (Tropical Coast), an area which comprises the Mediterranean coastline of the Granada Coast. It encompasses the most southerly mountain ranges such as Almijara and Guájares Sierras in front of the Sierra Nevada and which stretch almost as far as the coast in certain places. It is almost entirely enclosed within a vast alluvial plain formed by the River Guadalfeo and consisting of postorogenic, miocenic and quaternary material, and flanked by a mountain range running parallel to the coast such as the Sierra del Chaparral to the west, and the Sierra de Escalate to the  north-est. Separating both is the Tajo de los Vados gorge, where the bed of river Guadalfeo narrows and passes through. In the centre of the plain are two dolomite crags of differing heights: Monte Hacho (73m), and the Salobreña headland (110m), where a town has been established since Phoenician times. The geomorphological configuration explains the steep nature of the coastline mostly made up of cliffs, interspersed with small coves and, in some places, wide beaches. The River Guadalfeo which runs from the north to the south of the municipality, collects a great deal of water and snow from the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada and has created the fertile fluvial delta at its rivermouth. Depending on the environment, there are three quite different areas: Lilly areas to the west, planted with almond trees or scrubland; small hills and valleys with areas of irrigated land used for cultivation on both banks of the river or crops grown on dry land on the hillsides and, finally, to the south, the alluvial plain of the River Guadalfeo, a large fertile cultivated area where the contrast between the greenery of the sugar cane plantations, the dazzling whiteness of the town and the deep blue of the sea lends a breathtaking quality to the landscape. As far as the structure of the coast is concerned, the entire area is the result of fluvial formations interrupted only in the extreme west by steep cliffs. As far as the climate is concerned, it is of a typical semi-arid and Mediterranean nature with a definite subtropical thermal system. Average annual temperature is above 17°C with winter averages of around 12°C and approximately 24°C in the hottest months. Rainfall is about 500 ml a year. An analysis of the range in temperature throughout the year indicates that, whilst winter does not exist in the strictest sense of the word, there is a “cold” season in December, January and February with temperatures around 13°C. The summer months from June until September are warm and pleasant. From February until April there is a gradual increase in temperature which rise more sharply thereafter and peak in August. The warming-up process in the first half of the year is slower than the fall in temperature in the second half,  beginning in September and becoming more pronounced between October and November. Autumn is warmer than Spring due to the influence of the ascending currents of warm air from the sea. The geographical factors and different uses and exploitation of the land throughout the course of history, have created three distinctly different types of landscape: the extreme east planted with sugar cane on flat land, the hills in the western and central parts planted with almond trees but increasingly used for the cultivation of sub-tropical fruit trees and, finally, the patches of uncultivated land such as the Alto de Espartinas and La Cuerda del Jaral where grazing land alternates with shrubland of pal-mettoes and dwarf-oaks with some isolated pine-trees. Economically, there exists a clear dichotomy between the narrow strip of coastline which encompasses tourism, residential developments and the best arable land, and the adjacent mountainous areas where agricultural activity is intense and is therefore less dynamic as far as economy and population are concerned. Between these three areas of landscape and perched on top of the rocky outcrop, the urban population gazes out to the fertile plain and the sea, mindful of the possible dangers the sea threatened in the past, but safe from being flooded by the River Guadalfeo, (not until the middle of the twentieth century were developments built on the flat  ground). The old part of town retains much of its Muslim flavour; the castle at the top, the winding, sloping streets, the whitewashed houses and the numerous place names which serve as a reminder of its fine and noble past.

The Mediterranean coastal walk route in our itinerary links the towns of Salobreña and Almuñécar and runs parallel to the coastline. There are sections of the walk which pass through the old cattle path, “Colada de la Costa a la Sierra” that connected the coastal area with the neighbouring Sierras and which led cattle-herds to mountain pastures. This is a steep section of the coastline with ravines and watercourses that plunge to sea-level and the entire route is dotted with watchtowers, reminiscent of when the area was continually “on the alert”.  We leave from the Tourist Office, Salobreña, heading south along Avenida García Lorca until we reach the beach. We take the seafront. This path leads us to La Caleta and from Plaza del Lavadero Square we head up Real Caleta street which brings us to the CN-340 main road. Here we take the dirt-track which runs parallel to the main road and leads to El Pargo and Costa Aguilera urbanisations and on to the first point of historical interest of the route. Within the grounds of the Hotel Salobreña, (access is via the interior of the hotel) the first of the many watchtowers in this area can be found. It is a tall, narrow, cylindrical tower consisting of two storeys and a platform. Its construction is of solid, base with a conical shaped finishing, two metres high. The door is located in the lower chamber at a considerable  height from ground level and faces north. These watchtowers were built to guard the coastline, in search of enemy ships and warn the people of a potential attack by sending out fire or smoke signals. This particular watchtower is an example of a Nasrid building (13th to 15th centuries) and is in a fairly good condition. We now leave the hotel and walk  along the hardshoulder of the main road until we again join the path which runs parallel to the coastline. This ravine (barranco), derives its name from an abundance of hawthorn-type thickets; thorny, perennial shrubs which can reach 4m in height and are tolerant of drought conditions. They are found along the coastlines of southeast Spain and north Africa. We continue our walk in a westerly direction along the coastal foothills of the Sierra del Chaparral, crossing the municipal Salobreña Almuñécar boun-dary and reaching the Barranco de En-medio. This is the second point of historical interest and we can stop here for a short rest. On the western side of the ravine there are two watchtowers, the first and oldest is known as the Torre de Enmedio or Los Ladrones Tower and is a Nasrid building. The only remains visible today are those of the base. It is thought to have been a quadrangular tower, cons-tructed of rough stone work and fairly small in size (4 x 4 m). It was already in ruins by the middle of the eighteenth century and rebuilding was never con-sidered. For this reason, another tower was built next
to it at the end of the last century. This new watchtower is called Devil’s Tower. According to local legend, at the end of the eighteenth century, a group of bandits dressed as devils would attack passing travellers, hence its name,  Devil’s Tower. We continue our route along the urbanization downhill where the Curumbico and Cabria beaches are located until we come to the Barranco de Cabria. This ravine
is a broken-up riverbed, perpendicular to the coast and which flows into these two small coves where we can stop for a swim and a rest. We then head up along a narrow path situated on the western side of the beach until we reach Playa del Calabajio beach and  Pozuelo beach. From this point onwards, the built-up nature of the area indicates how close we are to Almuñécar.

This walk covers four archaeological sites in the area and there are three quite distinct sections to the route. The first takes us through the fertile plain roads and into the vicinity of the River Guadalfeo until we reach the small Lobres reservoir. The second part is along asphalt roads in good condition, the only difficult part is the steep approach path up to cota 100 (100 m above sea-level), where there are  extensive views of the Lobres plain with Salobreña in the background. The final section, (having left the Camino del Canal path), continues along the old Lobres to Molvízar road and includes a visit to Lobres village before returning to Salobreña along the Canal de San Augustín path. The last point of interest is Monte Hacho. The first section of the route is identical to the previously described walk to the
Magdalite Hills along the Camino de Pataura road to reach the Lobres – Molvízar-Ítrabo B-road. Cross with caution and follow the dirt road surrounding the alcohol-distillation factory in the direction of Lobres. We then take a left along an asphalt path which leads us in a northerly direction passing alongside the Cerro del Vínculo hill, an archaeological site on raised ground next to the River Guadalfeo
riverbed. According to pottery remains found, the site was occupied from the time of the Romans through to Late Roman or Early Medieval period (4th to 8th centuries). We continue in a northerly direction until we reach the approach path to the irrigation channel at 100 m above sea-level, passing through the country area known as Pago del Vínculo. According to archaeological material found, there were several inhabited areas close to each other during the Bronze Age (second millennium BC). Also a pottery container decorated in polychrome was discovered, which contained the bones of a child and dates back to the Punic era. From this point of the route there are fine panoramic views of the riverbed against the backdrop of lime vertical sections of the Tajos de los Vados gorge to the north, and the Lobres plain and village and, in the background, the headland of Salobreña. At this point of the route there is a substantial change as far as the type of vegetation is concerned, cultivated land changes to
typical Mediterranean shrub thickets. Pine and locust trees alternate with a dense bush-like area of plants and shrubs tolerant of extreme conditions such as rose-mary, box, blackthorn, hawthorn, broom, palms, rockrose, lavender, thyme etc. At the 8.81 km point, a narrow path emerges which leads us to Captain’s Cave (Cueva del Capitan), one of the most important archaeological sites pertaining to the
Neolithic period of coastal settlement (5th to 6th centuries BC) and which confirms human habitation of this area. Recent geological study of strata, points to a possible epiPalaeolithic (a period prior to the discovery of agriculture), to a late Neolithic, including Plenary Bronze Age strata. Both Cardium pottery as well as cut polished stone have been found. During the above-mentioned period of history, the coastline reached this far inland. We now leave the Camino del Canal path and branch off onto the Camino Viéjo de Lobres path, which leads us to the village of Lobres, a sub-district of Salobreña. Crop  cultivation is the area’s main economy and walking through the typical village streets, there is the opportunity to sample some of the excellent local wines. At the western part of the village, next to the cemetery, we come across another historical point in our route, the Chapel of San Antonio (patron saint of Lobres and celebrated on 13th June). It is a brickwork building whose façade is structured in various sections leading to an open belfry, crowned at the top with a triangular piece of architecture known as a pediment. Towards the upper part, there is a recess which contains a sculptured figure of Saint Anthony. After visiting the chapel we proceed down Calle Nueva Street which leads us to Church Square (Plaza de la Iglesia) where the church can be visited.  This parish church, formerly under the
protection of San Juan Crisóstomo, was built in the sixteenth century. It is a simple rectangular structure with a nave and chancel which were extended after the war. The front of the church is traditional in style with Tuscan rectangular columns and a rounded structure above the door (a pediment). The tower is smooth and even with an open, unadorned belfry. An altarpiece commissioned by Juan Salmerón was lost during the Civil War and was replaced by another in the same style from the chapel which had fallen to ruin. It is ornately engraved and decorated in a style typical of the second-half of the eighteenth century. At the side of the chancel are two stone engravings with the following ins criptions: “This is the chapel of Ivan Montañés  and his wife, María de Santa Ana and was finished in the year
1605”, and the one opposite is inscribed with the words, “With permission from S. don Pedro de Castro i Quiñones, Archbishop of Granada may God bless him”. These are simple yet interesting early  symbolic examples of the period, very few of which remain. The church is built of rough stone with brick coursing joints, most of which has been painted white. We now leave the village of Lobres downhill along Calle de Ingenio street and continue along the Camino Viejo de Lobres path which runs parallel to an irrigation channel until we reach the Lobres, Molvízar, Ítrabo Broad. (Cross with care). We
take the Camino del Canal de San Augustín path which leads us to the Rambla de Molvízar River and, in due course, to the Monte Hacho, the final archaeological site along our route. This raised site is one
of the two predominant features of the central Salobreña geographical plain. It was partly demolished and served as a quarry when construction of the CN-340 main road began which had to be at a sufficient height to prevent it from flooding. Much of it has therefore been destroyed. It has been confirmed that Copper Age materials (third millennium BC), pertaining to a necropolis of this period existed here. There was also a Bronze Age settlement, (second millennium BC). According to recent geological research, this headland was near to the coastline. From here we lead south towards
Salobreña, our destination point.

The gentle nature of this walk makes it suitable for all age groups due to the flat nature of the terrain with stretches of asphalt alternating with dirttracks through the plain. In summer it is advisable to avoid the hottest part of the day and choose, either early morning, or late afternoon when the sea breeze and warmth of the sun’s setting rays highlight the vivid contrasting colours. During the rest of the year, the walk can be done at any time of the day. As in all the previous routes, our point of departure is the Salobreña Tourist Office in Goya Square. From here we head south along Mediterranean Avenue in the Paseo Marítimo direction until we come to the local park La Fuente where we turn left along a dirttrack
which leads us to the first section of the walk through the fertile plain and along the beach. This path meanders through sugar cane plantations, subtropical fruit trees and market gardens (crops such as
potatoes, beans etc.) until it comes out at the Camino del Molino (Mill Path), connecting Salomar 2000 urbanisation with Playa de la Charca Beach. “Mill Path” derives its name from a flour mill
which was located here from the eighteenth to the beginning of the twentieth century, owned by Juan Fernández de Lara Caballero, a Salobreña parish priest. We turn left until we reach the River Guadalfeo which we can either cross at this point, at the mouth of the river (riverbed permitting) or via the CN-340 main road. Most of the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada are drained by this river which flows into a large delta and which, over a long period of time has shaped the landscape of the fertile plain. Recent geological research has revealed that circa 4000-3000 BC the coastal landscape was very different compared to the present one. A wide bay was evolving whose coastline was more than 4 km further inland than it is today which explains the former peninsular nature of the headland. The former coastal bay is now the Motril-Salobreña fertile plain. At the end of the Middle Ages the headland still re-tained its peninsular character although it was surrounded by a narrow strip of beach making navigation possible between the headland and Peñon island. However, the silting up of the bay covered a substantial area and the mouth of the River Guadalfeo was aligned with the headland. There is both
written and cartographic evidence from the beginning of the seventeenth century which refers to Salobreña as a town situated on the shores of the sea opposite a small island. A detailed map of 1722 reveals a coastline very similar to the present one with a large delta area and the former Peñon island joined on the northern side to dry land. From this point, following the southern slope of the river, we descend towards the rivermouth, beginning the coastal stretch of the walk. At this point we come across the few remaining marsh areas along this part of the Mediterranean coast since most have been drained and converted into arable land. We are amongst marshland densely covered with reeds and bulrushes, which serve as a refuge for a variety of fauna and numerous species of birds which, whether permanent or seasonal visitors, enjoy this protected habitat. Species typical of the area are the marsh harrier (Circus aeruginosus), the kingfisher (Alcedo atthis), wagtails (Motacilla sp.), wadingbirds (Bulbucus ibis) etc. This is truly an ideal spot for ornithologists and nature lovers. Continuing, we proceed in an easterly direction along the beach until we reach Motril-Salobreña boundary, marked on the map as the Camino
Pescadores Path, leaving behind us La Cagaílla Beach and after passing the Punta del Santo we come to Pelaíllo Beach. Following the coastline we come to the Playa Granada development, a residential area built in traditional Andalusian style with spacious gar-dens and a golf-course. We continue our walk until we reach the Poniente Beach and the marsh areas of Charca de Lecrín and Charca del Pelaíllo, (located behind the Gran Hotel Motril), which despite being in a more built-up area, does not deter the walker from enjoying the pleasurable experience of wandering along the banks. Next to these marsh areas we find ourselves in the fishing district of Santa Adela, where we can stop for a rest and sample the range of typical fried fish dishes on offer at the numerous bars and restaurants. We then continue our walk, leaving the coastline and entering into the area known as the fertile plain. Before doing this, first we reach the Rambla de las Brujas and walking along the left-hand slope we come across the  Papelera del Mediterráneo (Paper Factory). This factory was founded in 1963 with the aim of taking advantage of the sugar cane pulp which was a byproduct of the local industry. However, paper  production soon ceased due to its lack of profitability. The factory, commonly known as “Cellulose” has been one of the area’s main stays of employment and, nowadays the paper is made from pulp which is imported into the neighbouring port of Motril. From here we veer left, taking the Camino de Patria Path, the most southern of the traditional paths which pass through the “Vega Vieja” (old Fertile Plain), and which separates the countryside areas of “Patria” and “Las Algaidas”. The name “Algaidas” originates from the former existence of marshy areas of reeds and rushes. We continue along this path until it joins with Camino de Río Seco Path, an  asphalt path which gives access to the Playa de Granada development and along which we find ourselves in the last remaining European sugar cane area. The  cultivation of this crop, originally from Asia, was gradually introduced by the Moors into all suitable Mediterranean coastal areas and from here it was passed on to America. It gained major agricultural and industrial importance from the twelfth century onwards and during the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, developed into a commercial enterprise  envolving other European countries. There was an abundance of small mills and whitewashed houses where raw sugar was processed. During the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, Andalusian sugar production which extended from Málaga to Adra, suffered a serious crisis until its final disappearance in the final decades of the eighteenth century when it was replaced by cotton. However, towards the middle of the nineteenth century, the industry revived and sugar cane once again became the main crop in the Guadalfeo Plain, at the expense of the uncultivated, marginal lands. The boom in the industry did not last long due to the development of the sugarbeet industry and land set aside for sugar cane cultivation was progressively diminishing. However, until the seventies the area held out against agricultural alternatives introduced into neighbouring areas until the middle of the seventies, when the cultivation of subtropical fruits was introduced. Firstly, the custard-apple (chirimoyo), and soon after the avocado pear which were cultivated on the higher, better-drained areas of the plain to the extent that it is now no longer an area for exclusive singlecrop sugar cane farming. At the beginning of spring, however, the sugar cane harvest begins and the air is
filled with the sickly-sweet smell as the cane is burnt prior to being cut. Once we get to Camino de Río Seco Path, we continue for a few metres along this track in a northerly direction until the junction with Camino de Pescadores Path, which once again leads us to the bed of the River Guadalfeo which we cross until reaching the same lane which leads into Camino del Molino Path. We now proceed in a northerly direction towards the town of Salobreña.

This walk takes us through the countryside known as the “Magdalite Hills,” an area of gently sloping hills which to the north, frame the Motril-Salobreña plain. The old “Camino de Pataura road,” is a route which formerly connected this small estate of country houses to the town of Motril. From a historical point of view, its interest lies in seeing aspects of our most recent past, in addition to the beautiful   countryside we pass through with panoramic views of the fertile plain and sea. The track  begins at the Salobreña Tourist Office, Goya Square where we head for Avenida de Andalusia until we reach the riverbridge, close to the rivermouth. From here we proceed in a northerly direction, then to the right accros the Salobrena plain. Our attention is drawn  to the agricultural nature of the vast  Motril-Salobreña plain, where exotic subtropical fruit trees and skilfully sown and cultivated market garden produce grow. Thanks to the mild climate and richness of the soil, harvesting is able to take place several months earlier than in other regions. Following a brief, enjoyable track  through this section of the plain.  Alongside Playa Granada urbanization and Poniente beach promenade we get to Santa Adela  district and  sport courts. Take the Rambla de la Brujas (witches ravine) cicling track to the north, and get  next to “Al Campo” Hypermarket. After roundabout  take north  and find Old Sugar Refinery and Camino del Canal road.

Camino Minasierra: We reach Our Lady of Pilar Factory, very close to the outskirts of Motril. This was one of the area’s main sugar-refineries, set up in 1882 and  finally ceasing production in 1984. The type of buildings constructed evoked a “factory-colony” atmosphere where, in addition to areas designated for production, the owners had their living- quarters and adjoining areas were used to accommodate the permanent workers. Outbuildings were for the animals and day labourers involved in the cutting and transportation of the cane. Still standing to the present day are the factory, two houses, the dryingroom, storehouse and administration building. Of greater interest than the building itself is the industrial equipment it houses – a steam engine dated between  1889 and 1930. An official application for its inclusion in the general catalogue of Andalusian Historical Heritage has been made. Taking the road to the west we come across a small sugar factory called Our Lady of Almudena. It was built by the local bourgeoisie in 1912 for the purpose of crushing their harvested cane. It retains its original lay-out of a long upper construction and a lower quadrangular section. These manufacturing installations were sited here because of easy access to the two most basic sources of supply: water and sugar cane. There were limited methods of transporting a product which needed to be processed almost immediately which meant that the factories had to be sited as close as possible to the sugar cane crops and be easily accessible to irrigational channels which supplied the water.

Overlooking the south, it leads us in a westernly  direction to the area which formerly constituted the country estate of Pataura. This small hamlet was of great importance, located on the left bank of the River Guadalfeo and at the foot of gently sloping hills of the western slopes of the Magdalite Hills. Its origin was Roman, and it thrived throughout the Middle Ages before its decline following the expulsion of the Moriscos at the end of the sixteenth century. It disappeared altogether as a hamlet in the middle of the eighteenth century due to frequent flooding by the river and a scourge of serious epidemics  which decimated the population. The former church was sited next to an irrigation channel. From here we take the Camino del Canal path also known as Minasierra which runs along the southern slope of the Cerros de Magdalite hills, a small mountain range which from Escalate Hill, enters the Motril-Salobreña fertile plain. We find ourselves amongst a landscape that has largely evolved as a result of the sugar industry which developed in the second-half of the nine teenth century. From now on the path is dotted with large chimneys and stately houses built by members of the bourgeoisie who greatly  profited from this industry.

The first landmark of this type is the popularly known Casa de los Bates house, an Italian style house and garden built in the second half of the nineteenth century, situated on a hill with outstanding views of Salobreña, the fertile plain and the sea. The most remarkable features are the French gardens which retain their original design and plants, including different types of palms and exotic trees interspersed with waterfalls, fountains and an exterior stairway made of travertine marble. The house takes its name from a former irrigation area located to the west of Motril where sugar cane, vines and cereals were grown. It housed a flour mill, a sugar “aduana” (name given to sugar mills which used animal traction in the fifteenth century) and a look-out tower on the hill. Nowadays the house functions as a small 5-roomed hotel combining an aristocratic feel with unrivalled views from the rooms and gardens.

Lobres. Still continuing north we get to theCN-323 main road  (not highway) after passing by passageway.  Without losing sight of the river on your right, we continue until we join the B-road linking the villages of Lobres, Molvízar and Ítrabo. Here we come across the Azucarera Montero sugar refinery. This industry was established in 1897 and is involved in the process of alcohol distillation. The famous “Montero Rum” is produced here, a highly esteemed rum due to the traditional methods used. We leave the factory behind and turn right, crossing over the River Guadalfeo via the Puente de Lobres bridge until we get to the intersection with the  CN-323 main road.

We head south along the Camino de la Rambla de Molvízar path which we cross and, walking through the fertile plain, we arrive back in the town of Salobreña.